XCALAK PARADISE FLY FISHING LODGE-MEXICO

Any overseas fishing trip and especially a group trip starts long before you actually cast your first fly.  Contemplation, procrastination, decision, further procrastination, more decisions, commitment, logistics, uncertainties, anticipation, excitement….and then finally you get on a plane!  This latest  WhereWiseMenFish trip to Xcalak Paradise Fishing lodge was no different. 

Mexico has long been on the radar for its excellent all-round saltwater fly-fishing.  One flats saltwater species that Mexico is especially well known for is the ultra-finickity Permit.  I must confess that I have made something of a conscious effort to avoid targeting Permit over the last twenty years that I have been saltwater fly-fishing.  Of almost all the flats’ species you can chase, it is the one fish that can deliver heartache and frustration in equal measure, and that is after all the other factors have been taken into consideration.  

A very sage piece of advice that I was given a long time ago, by a battle-hardened saltwater veteran on my first trip to Cuba,  was never to dedicate a trip solely in pursuit of Permit, but rather enjoy all the opportunities from all the species that are on offer, restricting oneself to taking a cast at a Permit as and when the opportunity presents itself.   That is maybe a slightly simplistic approach as whilst random opportunities for all species present themselves, to optimise your chances you do need to dedicate a degree of your time to one or the other, all inhabiting slightly different areas.  Foer the first time, on my last trip to Mexico in 2025, I consciously ignored my own advice and despite days of frustration, I  was rewarded with my first ever Permit!  This trip to Xcalak, a location with excellent ‘Permit’ credentials, would hopefully allow me to capitalise on my past experience and for our intrepid team of Icelanders, headed by Tomasz, provide more than a  few opportunities to bag the most elusive of all the saltwater flats trophies.

On the flight over to Mexico, in timely fashion having just finished listening to the story of Shackelton and the crew of Endurance , I opened the window shutter to be greeted with the most amazing view of the sea, glaciers and icepack between Newfoundland and Canada.  Quite apart from the beauty, the loosely connected relevance to this fishing tale is that some unseasonally cold winds were blowing from the North, and those cold winds stretched all the way down through Florida and had reached as far as Xcalak on the southern tip of Mexico, which is located a stone’s throw from the border with Belize.

February has traditionally been one of the most popular times to fish in this part of the world, with typically stable weather, as well as making for a very appealing break from our winter.  It is worth noting that flats saltwater species, with the notable exception of migratory Tarpon, are resident all year round.  Recommended times to go are based around the reliability and stability of weather patterns rather that the arrival of the fish. This cold front however meant that for the first time that I can remember, for our initial two days fishing, most of us ended up seeking the  comfort of two top layers as well as a rain jacket on occasion.  The temp was approx. 18C vs a more normal 25-27C.

We saw Permit consistently all week, we cast at individual Permit, we cast at smaller schools of very large Permit, we cast at huge schools of medium sized Permit, and we cast at individual Permit.  Mainly they ignored, sometimes they followed and Tomasz did at least hook a sizeable one  which promptly snapped his leader…but that was as close as we got to landing the most elusive of all saltwater flat’s species.  It would be easy to  put our failed chances exclusively down to the unsettled weather but regardless of reason, and with all fishing tales there are a great many, Permit are a fish that can humble even the very best and most experienced, not that I am personally offering myself up as anything of the sort.

As a teenager, when I would return from yet another, more often than not fruitless Atlantic Salmon fishing trip, on offering a nil return to my inquisitive and naturally caring mother, she would express sympathy and how disappointed I must be.  Other than a degree of exasperation at having to provide yet more reasons for my failure I would insist that I was not the distraught wreck that she imagined, despite having spent all year dreaming of success on my annual salmon excursion.  As anglers we learn to train our minds to deal with disappointment and rather turn to all the other positive aspects of a trip, and there are of course a great many!!

Xcalak Paradise Lodge is newly built, has extremely comfortable bedrooms with all the expected amenities, delightfully smooth cotton sheets,  shampoos and conditioners, air-con, fans and all the wi-fi you could wish for!   The lodge courtyard has a stylish plunge pool and an outside sitting area,  but the centre piece is the fully stocked inclusive bar complete with an ‘Adrain’ our excellent and ever attentive host, waiter, lodge manager, general assistant and first class bar-tender. From morning cappuccinos to afternoon and evening  cocktails, of every variety and description, nothing seemed too much.

Our meals, breakfast, packed lunch in the boat, appetizers on return and evening meal were delicious.  Each and every meal varied, ranging from  with freshly caught snapper, lobster, pork loin, barbecued beef, conch, ceviche….the list was extensive, all finished off with an equally varied selection of deserts.   Good food, inclusive drinks and excellent service is not a rarity amongst fishing lodges but at Xcalak Paradise Fly-Fishing they have really made it a statement.

Back on the water, after our first few days it was good to be reminded that variety can often be the  recipe for success.  The flats abound with Bonefish and although larger Bones are around, the more common size is in the 1-3lb range.   More than enough to provide lots of sport and especially for those who were either new to saltwater fishing or who simply wanted a bit of action. Barracuda are equally numerous, with concentrations menacing  the Bonefish shoals in particular as well as being in the lagoons.  Use of the boat spinning rods provided very consistent Barracuda  action, although they can of course be targeted with a fly-rod.  Those that did so, but tried to bypass the mandatory  wire trace, very quickly came to appreciate quite how sharp a set of teeth a Barracuda has!

Xcalak provides some very good opportunities for big migratory Tarpon however we were too early for the migration which starts in May, with peak months being June and July.   What we could target were juvenile Tarpon hiding along the mangrove edges.  We tried numerous spots however the large lagoon behind Xcalak town, accessed by a narrow channel from the ocean-side as well as the large interconnecting canal channel which connects the very extensive inner lagoons from the ocean provided the  most action over our week.  Juvenile Tarpon can be as exciting as they can be frustrating.  Typically, they require accurate casts to the very base of the mangroves, allowing the fly to sink for 3-5 seconds and then a fast retrieve to encourage the Tarpon both to come and have a look and then, all going well, entice a take.  In the lagoon the shoals of Tarpon were numerous to say the least but finding the fish that will chase down a fly is never a given and did require a degree of perseverance despite the numerous shots.

Although the guides will fish this area from the boats, you can just as easily fish from the pier itself, and for those who are restless on return at 5pm, there is plenty of scope for another hour’s fishing…post a quick refreshing cocktail at the lodge!  On our second  evening we deployed with beers and enjoyed the spectacle of a ‘jack attack’  which resulted in a great fight and a nice Jack landed, albeit on a spinning rod, but more than enough to create inspiration for future evenings, an opportunity seized by Tommi. Although no more fish were landed, Tommi lost a good-sized Tarpon as well as receiving a take from another powerful Jack.

Xcalak town is as peaceful a coastal town in Mexico as you are liable to find.  Other than the few fishing lodges, there is really no tourism of note, and consequently it is really a rather delightful place to stay. Palm trees,  sandy tracks for roads, children out playing football every night and a generally happy and welcoming feel from all we encountered. There are a few very simple basic bars for a bit of variety away from the lodge where we had an early evening drink or a light snack, although there was certainly no need to supplement the delicious food from the lodge!

I am not going to make any excuses for our failure to land a Permit.   Permit will humble the very best, regardless of the conditions, and that is what is behind much of their appeal.  What I can say without question is that quite apart from the wide-ranging fishing opportunities  for a trip costing $4,500 USD/person, the level of service is exceptional and would not be out of place on a trip costing at least 1.5X that amount.  The next WWMF Xcalak trip planned will be to jointly target migratory Tarpon and Permit.   It may not provide an excuse to escape the February weather but 60-100Lb Tarpon have their own very strong appeal, although landing one of those on a fly is an achievement in itself!